Part 4, Kyoto:

Our adventure really gets started at this point as we are on our own, no more Japanese speaking tour guide to run to. We arrive in Kyoto just after 4:00 P.M. With help from local people, we manage to make it to our Ryokan. I’m transported back in time, this is traditional Japanese living. Our stay at the Ryokan is fantastic, this is a great base to venture out and explore the Kyoto and Nara area. We make great use of our rail pass as they are also accepted on JR buses as well. We enjoy Kyoto and our Ryokan so much that we change our travel arrangements to take in one more day in Kyoto. The owners of the Ryokan help us to contact the hotel in Osaka and make the necessary arrangements.
We explore the city of Kyoto, the city was Japan’s capital for over 1000 years and during that time was the epicentre of Japanese art, culture, religion and thought.

We tour many of the famous temples in Kyoto, my favourite was the Golden Pavilion or Kinkakuji temple a popular name for one of the spectacular buildings on the property. The proper name is the Rokuon-Ji Temple, in 1220 it was the comfortable villa of Kintsune Saionji. Yoshimitsu, the 3rd Shogun, he abdicated the throne in 1394. He had this villa made as a retirement home to indulge himself in a peaceful life in a serene setting. Upon Yoshimitsu’s death the site was made into a Zen temple as per his will. The site was declared a World Cultural Heritage Site in 1994.

Another wonderful site is the silver pavilion, Ginkakuji Temple, a Zen temple, established in 1482 by Ashikaga Yoshimasa the eighth Muromachi Shogunate. The temple was designed as a copy to Yoshimasa’s grandfather’s villa the Golden Pavilion. Yoshimasa spent his whole life designing the villa, he never got around to finishing the main building in a silver leaf on Japanese lacquer but it still rivals the Rokuon-Ji Temple.

There is no end of fascinating things to do and see in Kyoto, we visit most of the major temples in the area. We check out a Geisha festival, we walk the Path of Philosophy, visit a castle and shop at some unique stores. Our time in Kyoto also allowed us to visit a museum and an art gallery; we also sampled some excellent food. We end each day with a relaxing hot spring bath and fall asleep on a traditional tatami mat. This is the life, I want to stay in Kyoto but we must leave for Osaka and more touring. We present our host’s with gifts and bid them farewell, thanking them for the fantastic accommodation.


Philosopher’s Walk is a nice strolling pathway alongside an old canal between Nanzenji Temple and Ginkakuji Temple (Silver Pavilion). The path, flanked with cherry trees that are a remarkable sight when in bloom, is called the Philosopher’s Walk because of noted philosophers who used to stroll here in meditation. The walk takes approximately one hour to complete.

Osaka

Osaka is like any large city, we take some time to get to know it. We lay out a plan to sight see and relax. Our first trip outside the city is to a beach resort just outside Osaka on Osaka Bay, Nishikinohama Park. The salt water ocean soothes the muscles and walking on the sand beach is so therapeutic. This is an all day affair and we have a great time exploring the shops and restaurants along the way, we stay long enough to watch the sunset over Osaka Bay.

Our next day we decide that Mt. Fujiyama will have to be discovered another time; we opt for the much closer Mt. Kongo. We travel by train to the station on the outskirts of Osaka, transfer to a bus that takes us to the base of Mt. Kongo. We walk with a lot of other people, no westerners, and many elderly people to the Mt. Kongo Ropeway. Mt Kongo at 1,125 Meters above sea level is the highest peak in Osaka prefecture it is about 20oF cooler than the city and relief is felt upon arriving at the platform. The ropeway is a cable car that transports you up to the peak or at least as close as you can get by rope cable car. The ride to the top takes about 15 minutes, it’s a blast, and a great view, and is quite safe. The trip to the summit takes about another hour it is a nice walk up one of numerous paths. Once we reach the summit we consider placing a flag for Canada but decide against it and instead settle down for a picnic. We have another great day and make the journey back trying out a different path. On the way we see a Ryokan in the mountains and consider how nice that would be for a future trip. We also visit a small museum and rest spot dedicated to preserving nature. At this site they explain the history of the cable car the area and the animals that inhabit the forest.


Our last day in Osaka is spent touring the Osaka Castle and the grounds surrounding the castle. The castle is a museum housing many ancient artefacts. The most fascinating of which, are the display of priceless swords. The museum has seven floors, most floors are devoted to the life of Toyotomi who built the castle and unified the entire nation. The castle was to be re-constructed 3 times due to loss by fire. The original structure was built in 1583 by Hideyoshi Toyotomi.

After our tour of the castle, we explore the one-acre park surrounding the castle. We spend the day leisurely strolling the grounds. Once again through chance we come upon a throwback to ancient times, a training hall for young swordsmen. The facility known as the shudokan is having a seminar or grading, over 100 children of different ages are taking part in different kendo (sword fighting) exercises. We enjoy the sights of the Osaka castle grounds until dinner time.

We have decided that it is a must for us to check out the famous Osaka Blue Note Club. Catching a train for Osaka City Central we head in the direction of the club scene. As we have heard the club is very expensive we have dinner at a restaurant that specializes in Italian cuisine. It rivals the best Italian food of any place that we have eaten Italian food. We enjoy dinner a little longer than expected and arrive at the Blue Note with only an hour left in the set. The artist is someone we are not familiar with, an Australian Jazz crooner. We decide to pass and journey a little further up the road to another club where we here the sure sounds of Jazz flowing onto the street. The club is called Jazz On Top, a very tiny club, no cover charge but they have a two drink minimum. There is a Japanese quartet on stage, with a female vocalist. The rhythm section made up of Piano, Bass, Drums and an Alto Sax player thrown in for good measure. The players are all young University students, they play with passion. We are the only westerners in the bar and they seem encouraged by our presence. At the break the piano player and vocalist join us and inquire as to what part of America we are from, and do we like Jazz. We respond the very Northern part, Canada and we love Jazz and we have seen Stan Getz who performed much of the music they were playing tonight. They are thrilled, in broken English and Japanese we communicate about Jazz in Canada, New York and Japan. The band returns to play one final set, Nina and I relax and enjoy the evening. The band joins us after their set and we continue to talk till closing time, we wish them well and promise to keep in touch. One thing about Japan every one has a business card, I unfortunately misplaced the cards I was given and can only wish them well in spirit.


Our plane departs Japan at 2:00 P.M, we have plenty of time and take it easy on our return trip to Kansei airport, about a half an hour away. We meet up with most of the members of our team. Some have travelled on to other destinations; some are remaining in Nobeoka for the rest of the summer to continue training. The airport has a Noodle stand and we have lunch with some of the team members, sharing tales of adventures, while in Japan.


The plane takes off on schedule; the weather is picture perfect, 90oF and 80% Humidity level, with clear skies. As we fly over Osaka Bay I get one last look at this incredibly fascinating country, Sayonara Japan till next time.